Pair of Lined and Interlined Silk Red Velvet Curtains

c. 1883

A pair of lined and interlined silk red velvet portieres (Italian and American, late 15th century and c. 1883) with late 15th century Italian appliqué reworked and assembled by Mary E. Tillinghast (American, 1845-1912) after designs by John La Farge (American, 1835-1910). The late 15th century appliques come from liturgical vestment fragments and altar frontals purchased by Cornelius Vanderbilt II at the San Donato sale of the Demidov collection, La Farge mounted the appliques in a new configuration set against red plush velvet backgrounds executed under Tillinghast’s direction. Each portiere has an applied armorial bearing surrounded by cascading tassels worked in colors with silver and gold wire and with a broad foliate border. Together with matching gold rope tieback ending in a tassel. Originally from the Vanderbilt residence at 1 West 57th St. NY.

a= curtain, b= tieback

Mary E. Tillinghast served as the head of John La Farge’s embroidery department. In 1882, in order to alleviate debt and fulfill pending contracts, the two entered a partnership and started the firm John La Farge and Tillinghast. However, the partnership was short lived, ending in litigation.

American

Italian

silk

metal threads

cotton

119" x 78"

Gift of Countess Nandine Eltz, 1972.

PSNC.2553.1a-b - .2a-b